Tuesday, July 16, 2024

Lost in Time

 From The Abbey of Misrule:

You wouldn’t know it to visit, but Tuamgraney is one of the most important local ecclesiastical sites in Ireland. Today it’s a quiet village near the southern end of Lough Derg, not far away from the site of last week’s hilltop expedition, our visit to Holy Island, or the two wells of Killaloe. In early Christian Ireland though, it was all happening here. The village is mentioned in the Annals of Ireland more than thirty times between the eighth and the sixteenth centuries, and is still home to St Cronan’s Church, a tenth-century building said to have been founded by local hero Brian Boru, which remains the oldest church still in use in Ireland.

Also nearby is the famed ‘Brian Boru oak’, a tree said to be a thousand years old, which is a tiny remnant of the great oak forest that once covered this region. (Here is a pleasantly old-fashioned TV news piece from 1987 about the tree.) It’s well country, basically.

This week’s site is a lot easier to find than the last one. For a start, its location has been established for centuries, and secondly it’s right next to the main road out of the village. In fact, the old stone wellhouse of St Coolan’s Well stands in the driveway of a big stone house. When we drew up in our car to visit the well, the house owner came out onto the drive and looked at us suspiciously. It seems this well doesn’t get too many visitors. (Read more.)

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