The best diamond. From
Departures:
Diamond mining. The
very words have some, well, conflict. The precious stones, first
discovered in India in the fourth century B.C., are born 90 to 125 miles
deep in the earth’s mantle, packed in kimberlite and lamproite, and
cooked for a billion or so years under tremendous heat and pressure.
Kimberlite magma funnels them up toward the surface, and then they’re
blown from rock with artfully placed dynamite. Then the drama really
starts.
Although diamonds were first
mined in India, it was the diamonds discovered in Kimberley, South
Africa, in 1866 that established the modern diamond era. And when Cecil
Rhodes founded De Beers Consolidated Mines Limited in 1888, he also
established the modern diamond market. In fact, by 1900, De Beers was
responsible for approximately 90 percent of the rough diamonds cut in
the world.
Toward the end of the 20th
century, De Beers fielded competition from Rio Tinto Diamonds and Alrosa
and diamonds were discovered in the former Soviet Union and in what is
now the Democratic Republic of Congo. But in 1975, Angola, with many
newly active mines, gained independence from Portugal, and diamonds went
from being “a girl’s best friend” to a $4 billion down payment on a
civil war. Indeed, an estimated 15 percent of diamonds purchased in the
1990s were conflict diamonds, stones originally sold for illegal and
unethical gain. Today, thanks in large part to the United Nations
Kimberley Process, a certification system initiated in 2000 and now
adopted by 81 countries, that number has shrunk to less than 1 percent.
“Believe me, I want people to
fall in love with a great stone first, then feel good about where it
came from,” Scheufele says. “I first started thinking about this with
gold when we introduced fair-mined gold in 2013. I believe this is where
we are going as an industry. We will be like the car industry, the food
industry—where this transparency will be imposed by governments. We at
Chopard want to be early.” She twiddles her diamond necklace. The stones
are from Botswana, by the way. “This is the new normal.”
(Read more.)
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