“She was such a queen of fashion,” said costume designer Marie
Frémont of Marie Antoinette, the iconic and ill-fated last monarch of
France. Despite her doomed end, Marie Antoinette continues to
reign as a cultural figure, influencing designers including John
Galliano during his time at Dior, and Vivienne Westwood, and as the
subject of Sofia Coppola’s 2006 Oscar-winning film. Now, the
petulant princess is being reexamined by Oscar-nominated screenwriter
Deborah Davis in an eponymous series starring German actress Emilia
Schüle. The lavish, 23 million euro English-language production from
CanalPlus follows the young Austrian as she’s sent away from her family
at 14 years old and thrust toward the throne, through her first decade
in France.
“Our writer made a choice to distance the
narrative from everything we already know about Marie Antoinette and her
passion for beautiful things,” Schüle said. “People see her as this
party girl and this icon that just cared about wigs and dresses, but we
are going to portray her in a much more emancipated and modern way
because that’s what she truly was.” Schüle flew to Paris shortly
after being cast, and the experience set the tone for the German
actress. “We had to get started with wardrobe right away, so suddenly
I’m in this room full of French people. Most of them don’t speak English
— I don’t speak any French. So I felt like a foreigner just like Marie
Antoinette did when she arrived from Austria.”
Fittings
were stiff as she had to stand still for hours, which initially made her
so uncomfortable she fell ill — another parallel with the young queen.
“It helped me get into character because just like Marie Antoinette, I
did feel like uncomfortable with the corsets. And with loads and loads
of fabric, I had to adapt to an entirely new existence,” she said.
Schüle said being tightly trussed upended her eating habits, required
assistance going to the bathroom, and made her completely dependent on
other people dressing and undressing her.
“It just gave me
another insight of what life must have been like back then for women and
how it was an obstacle. I don’t know if this getting too political, but
it was also a means to suppress women because you can’t even run with
this kind of dress. This is why we need trousers,” she joked.
To further mimic Marie Antoinette’s sense of displacement, production
decided against etiquette training, particularly on how to sit and
stand in such a getup, adding a sense of awkwardness with this new
weight on her. Wigs were designed to be hollow and light, but, along
with makeup, it could take up to five hours a day to complete the look.
Marie
Antoinette’s private apartments were rebuilt with all the gilt and
glamour on a soundstage on the outskirts of Paris, with other interiors
shot at chateaus and palaces, including some scenes at Versailles. “I
was living in a bubble, the bubble of perfection with perfect rooms and
perfect dresses,” said the Berliner, who admits to preferring a “certain
note of edge” in her personal style outside of set. On the red carpet,
she’s worn Gucci, Chanel and Dior.
Dior also designed two
costumes for key scenes, including when Marie Antoinette was being
presented in Paris for the first time and another when she attends a
ball. That collaboration came about when Frémont and Schüle were
discussing scenes during one of their many long fittings, and decided
that the Parisian occasions called for special gowns. Schüle was fitted
in the Dior atelier. There have been so many famous takes on her fashion, that it was a challenge to create a new approach, added Frémont.
“Of
course a big reference was Sofia Coppola’s ‘Marie Antoinette,’ but we
wanted to do something of our own and everybody wanted it to be modern.
Deborah [Davis]’s vision is quite modern because it’s a woman’s vision, a
really interesting perspective. We also wanted to keep it quite
historical because sometimes when you want to modernize, you see the
show a few years later and it can be seen as dated,” Frémont said.
Frémont
looked to the writings of Marie Antoinette’s lady-in-waiting Jeanne
Louise Henriette Campan, and plumbed the depths of Paris’ fashion museum
Palais Galliera. It holds more than 1,600 garments from the century,
which gave Frémont new ideas on fabrics, dyes and textiles. She
kept the historic codes while adding in lighter materials, exploring
leaner silhouettes and brighter colors. “Of course, there were a lot of
‘It’ girls in the 18th century, which invented very fun things and
fantasy, so you can go quite far,” Frémont said.
Each character
was given their own color palette, with Marie Antoinette’s in blues,
greens and grays. “Some of the blues are quite strong and not the pale
pastel we are accustomed to. It’s more a reflection of the truth of the
time — deeper blues and greens, Prussian blue, duck blue,” Frémont said.
The colors get bolder throughout the series as Marie Antoinette grows
in power and inner strength.
There are deep purples, and even a
bright apple green for the character of the Count of Provence, which
stemmed from a find in the Palais Galliera which Frémont called
“astonishing.” The costume team hand-dyed many of the fabrics in order
to get a richness of color, and a winter shoot allowed them to play with
heavier textiles, such as velvets for added depth.
Still, Frémont lobbied to keep the tight corset. “I fought for it
because I think the lines of the 18th century need to be carried. Of
course we used more modern fabrics to make it a little bit more
comfortable,” she said. Marie Antoinette was required to wear a more
rigid version called the grand corps, which was considered an honor at
the time not bestowed on lower women of the court, but she complained
about in private letters written at the time. Frémont did decide to
forgo this strict shape and use a standard corset.
“I was so happy the day we stopped filming that I wouldn’t have to wear those corsets again,” Schüle added.
The
first series required 140 complete outfits handcrafted for the
principals, as well as dressing dozens of extras. The production rented
some costumes for the background actors from across France, Italy, Spain
and the U.K.
One of the unusual aspects of filming during the
pandemic was that several productions that had been temporarily halted
were now back up and running — all at the same time. “The racks of the
rental houses were quite empty. We were lucky [with some pieces] but
there was really not a lot of things left,” Frémont said. “But even
without this challenge we decided we wanted to make our own costumes for
the extras to give our own tone to the stock. It was a bit of an issue,
but we were prepared.”
Before the next installment of the
series, which is slated for three seasons, Schüle is taking an acting
sabbatical to attend film school in London to study directing. The next
seasons will be more transformational as the young queen becomes more
confrontational against the system and moves to the Petit Trianon, she
said.
“I know this is not the view that most people have of her,
but she was fighting to preserve her freedom and her personal space. And
that was, after all, something that enabled her enemies to undermine
her and eventually destroy her. Because she was not adapting, she was
fighting against the rules of the court, she found them ridiculous,”
added Schüle. “She was stubborn and wanted to change things. She was a
rebel.” (Read more.)